Information

Product Details

As with all our hubs, the CLD (Center Lock Disc) draws on over 30 years worth of hub manufacturing experience and real world testing, going back to the “Ti Cassette hub” we introduced in 1992.  We’ve been doing this for a long time, and every White Industries hub we make has that original DNA in it; simple, durable, dependable.

By far our most popular hub, the CLD’s are perfect for road and gravel bikes because of their low weight and clean, minimalist look.  But they are equally at home on mountain and touring builds due to their robust and durable design.  When in doubt, CLD’s are the easy choice. 

Designed around the Center Lock splined disc rotor mounting standard, the core of the rear CLD is a heat treated, black-oxided 4130 steel axle with aluminum axle ends, rotating on four Enduro brand bearings: two in the 6061-T6 aluminum hub shell, and two in the 6/4 titanium freehub body.  CLD’s are made here in our Petaluma, Ca. shop, and available in four spoke drillings, seven colors, two axle configurations, and five different freehub bodies.  That’s 280 different variations! 

Specs

• Hub shell is made from 6061-T6 aluminum
• Finish: Polished, then anodized, with machine-engraved logos
  • Polished silver finish is not anodized
• Freehub body is made from 6/4 titanium
• Enduro sealed radial carbon steel bearings
  • Enduro XD-15 Ceramic bearing upgrade available
• Heat treated and black oxide 4130 steel axle with aluminum axle ends
• Adjustable bearing preload
• Heat treated steel 48 tooth drive ring that threads into the hub shell
• 48T (7.5 degree) freehub engagement
• 3 heat treated steel freehub pawls with stainless steel leaf springs
• Easily serviceable and rebuildable
• Weight: 280g
• Spoke drillings: 24, 28, 32, 36
• Colors: black, blue, gold, pink, polished silver (not anodized), purple, red
• Interchangeable freehub bodies (requires purchase of a new freehub body)
• Axle options (interchangeable between the two, but only one comes with the hub):
  • 10mm x 135mm QR
  • 12mm x 142mm Thru

Wheel Building Specs

• Standard J-Bend spokes

Bearings

Compatibility

• Axle options (interchangeable between the two, but only one comes with the hub):
  • 10mm x 135mm QR
  • 12mm x 142mm Thru
  • Can not be converted to Boost 12mm x 148mm Thru axle
• Freehub Bodies/Cassettes (the 5 different freehub bodies are interchangeable):
  • “Shimano HG 8-12 Speed” freehub bodies fit Shimano Hyperglide 8-12 speed cassettes (spacer not included for 8-10 speed cassettes and 11 speed mountain cassettes)
  • “Shimano Micro Spline” freehub bodies fit Shimano Micro Spline cassettes
  • “SRAM XD/XDR” freehub bodies fit Sram XD and XDR cassettes (1.85mm spacer included for XD cassettes)
  • “Campy 9-12 Speed” freehub bodies fit Campy 9-12 speed cassettes
  • “Campy N3W/EKAR” freehub bodies fit Campy N3W/EKAR cassettes and Campy 9-12 speed cassettes with Campy AC21-N3W adapter 
• Requires Center Lock style rotors
• Rotor lockring compatibility (not included):
  • Internally splined lockring such as Shimano SM-RT81
  • Externally splined lockring such as Shimano SM-HB20 or HB-M8010
• Rotors and lockrings that do not strictly adhere to Shimano’s specifications may not work with our hubs

What’s In The Box

• Complete rear CLD hub with freehub body
  • Does not include extra freehub bodies
  • Does not include extra axle kits
  • Does not include Thru axle or QR skewer
  • Does not include rotor lockring

FAQ

• Which is better, the CLD hub or XMR hub?
  • Neither is “better”.  Both share the same internals and the differences really come down to the two different rotor mounting standards: Center Lock for CLD, and 6-bolt for XMR.  Also, the XMR has larger flanges with window cut outs, and some may prefer that look over the smaller CLD flanges without windows.  The bottom line is you can’t go wrong with either hub!
• What type of service should I be performing on my hubs, and how often?
  • This depends on the type of climate you’re riding in, and how often.  To check the bearings, remove the wheel once a month and spin the axle with your fingers to check for roughness which would indicate a bearing/bearings need to be replaced.  At least once a year pull the hub apart to inspect and clean/regrease the freehub body parts (pawls etc).  In extreme conditions do this more often.  In wet climates you can smear extra grease on the faces of the outer bearings to help protect them.  For this, we like to use Sta-Lube Water-Resistant Marine Grease.
• What type of grease do I use inside the freehub body?
  • We use Lubriplate brand No. 105 grease during assembly. Small, 10 oz tubes are sold as “Lubriplate No. 105 Motor Assembly Grease” at auto parts stores.  This grease has a “NLGI #0” consistency which is similar to brown mustard (that’s how the grease scientists describe it).  But any quality grease with the same consistency (or slightly thinner) will work.  A small amount smeared into the teeth of the Ratchet Ring and in the pawl pockets of the freehub body is all that’s needed.  Too much will interfere with the operation of the freehub pawls and cause skipping.  You can also use Phil Wood Tenacious Oil or Dumonde Freehub Oil if you prefer a bit louder sound.
• My wheel has a little wiggle in it.  How do I fix this?
  • Refer to the Rear Hub Assembly document.  Specifically Figs. 23 and 24.  The preload on our hubs is adjusted by applying pressure to the Preload Collar (the thing with the 3 set screws), not the Axle End.  Use a socket over the Axle End to apply pressure to the Preload Collar, then tighten the 3 set screws as you hold medium pressure on the socket.  If your wheel develops the wiggle again after a ride or two, you may need new bearings.  Bearings can feel smooth but still be worn out. 
• Can I get this hub in a Boost 12mm x 148mm Thru axle?
  • Yes, but that would be a different model called the “CLD+”.  The standard CLD (which is what you’re looking at on this page) can not be converted to a Boost axle/spacing.
• Can I swap from the 10mm x 135mm QR axle to the 12mm x 142mm Thru axle?  And is that difficult?
  • You can swap from one axle to the other, but you will need to purchase a new axle kit.  Those are on the Parts>Hub Parts>Axle Kits page. Instructions are in the Rear Hub Assembly document, but it’s not a complicated procedure and does not require special tools.
• Can I swap to a different freehub body? And is that difficult?
  • You can swap from one freehub body to any of the others.  Those are available on the Parts>Hub Parts>Freehub Bodies page.  If you are swapping to or from a Shimano Micro Spline freehub body, you will also need to purchase the appropriate axle kit on the Parts>Hub Parts>Axle Kits page.  Instructions are in the Rear Hub Assembly document, but it’s not a complicated procedure and does not require special tools.
• How can I restore that shiny silver finish on my polished raw aluminum White Industries parts?
  • Use “Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish” with a microfiber rag.  Start with heavy pressure and lighten up towards the end.
• Can I get these in a custom anodized color or hole drilling?
  • Unfortunately we do not offer those options.

Technical Documents

• Rear Hub Assembly

• Ratchet Ring and Pawl Identification

• Ratchet Ring Removal and Installation

• Freehub Body Identification Guide